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Buying slab bacon rather than sliced allows you to cut it into the perfect size and shape.
- 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
- 4 ounces slab bacon, cut into 1x¼-inch pieces
- 1 medium shallot, finely chopped
- Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
- 2 large heads of frisée, torn into bite-size pieces
- 2 tablespoons 1½-inch pieces fresh chives
Pour water into a large saucepan to a depth of 2" and bring to a boil. Reduce heat so water is at a gentle simmer and add white vinegar (it helps the egg whites stay compact). Crack an egg into a small bowl, then gently slide it into the water. Repeat with remaining eggs, waiting until the whites are starting to set before adding the next one (about 30 seconds apart). Cook eggs until whites are just set but yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer eggs to paper towels as they finish cooking.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the fat has rendered and bacon is starting to brown, 5–8 minutes. Add shallot, season with kosher salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallot is translucent and softened but hasn’t taken on any color, about 5 minutes. Add red wine vinegar. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced by three-quarters, 5–8 minutes. Taste bacon vinaigrette and adjust seasoning with kosher salt and pepper if needed.
Place frisée in a large bowl and drizzle warm bacon vinaigrette over top. Gently toss until frisée is evenly dressed and slightly wilted and season with fleur de sel and pepper.
Divide frisée salad among plates and carefully set an egg atop each. Season eggs with fleur de sel and pepper and scatter chives around.
Do Ahead: Eggs can be poached 4 hours ahead. Place in a bowl of ice water; cover and chill. Reheat in barely simmering water 1 minute before serving.
Nutritional ContentCalories (kcal) 210 Fat (g) 16 Saturated Fat (g) 4 Cholesterol (mg) 195 Carbohydrates (g) 5 Dietary Fiber (g) 2 Total Sugars (g) 1 Protein (g) 12 Sodium (mg) 270
How to Make a Classic Frisée Salad a.k.a. a French Bistro In a BowlReviews Section
Frisée, sometimes called Curly Endive, as it is a member of the edive/chicory family, is one of our favourite greens in the summer. It can be grilled, wilted, sautéed, and torn into pieces to add volume and depth of flavour to fresh salads. Its lightly bitter notes balance well with a number of other flavour profiles making it a great counterpoint to the sourness and acid of citrus, sweet fruits like strawberry, pear, peaches and pomegranate, and it holds its own next to salty anchovies, hard boiled eggs and pungent cheeses. Frisée’s curly leaf is also attractive to look at bright green at its tips, where it is most tender and its bitter notes are the strongest, it fades in colour and intensity to a creamy yellow and white base, that is milder and almost sweet in flavour with a little added crunch.
Frisée’s stunning visual appeal is a result of a little manipulation knowm as “blanching” during its growth, common in the cultivation of members of the endive family in this case, frisée’s outer leaves are tied together in a bunch which prevents the sun from reaching the inner leaves. As a result, the exterior leaves are bright green and the core is “blanched.” This leafy green is not only vibrant in colour and taste, it is packed with goodness as an excellent source of vitamins A, C and K, and high concentrations of folic acid (vitamin B9) and manganese. And at a measly 4.5 calories per cup of chopped frisée (a 25 g serving) you can munch on it all the live long day.
Though it is probably best known as a salad ingredient, this green makes a great side dish too, and cooks up in a couple minutes. To grill it, leave the bunch intact and place it on a hot grill, spreading it out so it is a uniform height and as many of the leaves as possible are exposed to the coals. Let it alone for about a minute, depending on how hot your grill is, and then turn it over. The leaves will have wilted and curled a bit, and turned a toasty brown in places. The exposure to heat cooks the leaves a little and brings out its sweet side too, so the overall effect is slightly bitter, slightly sweet, a little tender and a little crunchy. All in all a really beautiful side dish, drizzled with a little fine olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and a little seasoning of salt and pepper.
When it comes to salads, frisée is a show-stopper, and most frisée salads are a meal unto themselves. Just have a gander at this drool-worthy Frisée-lardon Salad with poached egg by Chef Ludo Lefebvre. And in Spain, the Catalan salad Xato is basically a national treasure, a rich, nutty Xato sauce is tossed with the curly endive and tuna (or cod), anchovy and olives. Super healthy, low in calories and delicious. Eat this all summer and in the fall you’ll be slim and healthy Xato of your former self!
With consumers’ craving for charcuterie on the rise, Seattle’s thriving artisan cured meat scene brings home more than just the bacon. Charcuterie, the french style of curing, preserving, and smoking meats, includes savory mainstays like bacon, ham, and sausage, as well as pâtés, terrines, and confits.
But Seattleites also enjoy their salumi, the Italian style of salt-cured, aged, dried meats - typically pork.
Here, a trio of Seattle’s most successful cured meat purveyors share their secrets to success:
Salumi Artisan Cured Meats | Pioneer Square
Everyone has a retirement dream. For Armandino Batali, former Boeing Process Control Engineer and father of culinary phenom Mario Batali, that dream was salumi. Started in 2002, Salumi Artisan Cured Meats pays homage to Armandino Batali’s maternal grandfather, founder of Seattle’s first Italian food import shop, Merlino’s.
Batali seeks to provide unique, artisan cured meats using traditional methods. Challenging consumers to ‘think outside the casing,’ Salumi offers seasonal salami like winter red and green peppercorn, as well as year-round salami like hot sopressata (garlic flavored) smoked paprika, finocchiona (fennel-flavored), and molé (chocolate with cinnamon, chipotle and ancho.)
A proponent of the Slow Food Movement - a movement started in Italy in 1986 which encourages traditional, regional cuisine - Salumi sources much of its pork from local farms in Oregon and Washington.
However, Batali finds that the smaller Northwest pigs lack the European fat-to-lean ratio necessary in some cured meat products, especially muscle meat products like guanciale (cured pork jowl), coppa (cured neck muscle) culatello (cured backside) lomo (cured tenderloin) and pancetta (cured pork belly.) Because the right fat content is essential in these items, Salumi imports spotted Berkshire pure breed pigs from Certified Humane farmers in the Midwest. Gourmands prize this rare breed for their juicy, tender, high fat content meat.
In addition to pork products, Batali combines his life-long love of lamb with his passion for cured meat to create lamb prosciutto, made in the same manner as his prosciutto crudo, or air-cured, thinly sliced uncooked ham.
Delicatus | Pioneer Square
Founded in 2010 by Derek Shankland and Mike Klotz, Delicatus began as an old-style delicatessen, emulating European traditions while using Northwest-sourced ingredients. Since opening its doors, Delicatus has morphed into more, much more - including a place at the cured meat table. It’s also proven instrumental in reviving Seattle’s Pioneer Square neighborhood.
An important cornerstone of the community, Delicatus expands to meet the needs of its clientele. This includes adding a dinner menu, a retail menu, a catering and special event venue down the street called Delicatus Kitchen, and formation of SousSol Winery, a vanguard in the Downtown Seattle Winery movement.
Delicatus’ retail menu highlights their own Wooden Table Meat Program, with delectables like Brisket Pastrami, Eye of Round Beef Roast, and Wooden Table Sausage, plus local and international purveyors like Olympic Provisions, Zoe’s Meats, Galloni, and Fra’mani.
Delicatus Kitchen also hosts special events like Pioneer Square Artwalk, Mariners and Sounders Game Nights, Annual Harvest Dinner, and local chef pop-ups. One recent event, Jazzy French Cafe, included live music, cocktails, and house-crafted concoctions like pistachio paté, pork rillette, foie gras, and frisée & lardon salad.
Rain Shadow Meats | Capitol Hill & Pioneer Square
Rain Shadow Meats isn’t your regular neighborhood butcher. San Francisco native Russell Flint didn’t just want to chop meat. He wanted a place to create his own house-made charcuterie, utilize his custom curing room, and showcase specialty purveyors like Tails and Trotters hazelnut-finished pork, Nicky USA game meat and birds, and Anderson Ranch lamb.
Flint cut his teeth in the butchery business first at Larry’s Market, and then at Whole Foods, where he learned not only how to cut meat and make sausage, but about the importance of naturally raised meats to enhancing quality and flavor.
Flint stocks his lunchtime menu with salads, plates and specialty sandwiches, a few charcuterie finds like Fermin Jamon Serrano and Ollie Speck, as well as house-made gems like Paris ham, country-style pork or beef shank terrine, paté foie de porc, and chicken liver mousse.
Hey Lardo! – LARDO WRAPPED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH ROASTED POTATOES AND SWISS CHARD and CURLY ENDIVE WITH WARM PANCETTA AND BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Looking back from the coast at the Apuan Alps you would swear that you were looking at snow covered peaks. In fact what you are seeing is marble, widespread in the Alps, reflecting in the sun.
Carrara, the centre of the marble mining industry, is a medieval village nestled into the base of the Alps. This is where artists traveled(think Michelangelo) and still travel to this day, to pick out pieces of marble to carve into masterpieces like “David”.
The town itself is hardly a tourist attraction. It’s the huge marble quarries up the slope that people come to witness. However, two things worth checking out in the village are the Duomo (cathedral) which was built from the 11th to the 14th century (depicted by the Romanesque architecture at the bottom and the Gothic at the top) built from flawless black & white marble. The other is the Malaspinas’ former residence (rulers for over 300 years), now the Academy of Fine Arts, both were closed when we visited.
So it was up the slopes we went to take in the massive scale of marble extraction. The sound of drilling and heavy equipment echoed through the valley. Huge trucks with gigantic pieces of marble downshifted and snaked their way around the ridiculously steep, narrow and curving roads.
Driving our little Fiat up and around some of the blind switchbacks we both were praying that we would not come face to face with one of the mammoth trucks, thankfully our prayers were answered. In fact, if two of these trucks happen to meet, the roads are so narrow that one will have to back up (or down) until the other can pass.
Having taken in enough mining action, it was time for the culinary leg of this tour which would bring us to a tiny Roman village called Colonnata.
Up a goat trail of a road
About another 8K past Carrara, up a goat trail of a road, you are greeted by this charming little village with breathtaking views of the mines and valley below. Colonnata is mostly famous for one thing, lardo!
Cured back fat of a pig
Lardo is the cured back fat of a pig. For centuries the residents of Colonnata have been making lardo to feed the poor, hard-working marble workers who would eat slices of it on a piece of bread for lunch and get enough calories to crack marble for the rest of the day.
Lardo has made a resurgence among Italian foodies and has received recognition as a protected geographical indication. The PGI is usually the name of an area used as a description of an agricultural product or a foodstuff. In this case lardo di Colonnata, whose production, processing or preparation takes place within that geographical area.
Making lardo is quite simple
The process of making lardo is quite simple the pork is layered into solid marble basins with salt, sugar, garlic, rosemary, cinnamon, bay leaves and pepper, up to three feet deep. It is then covered and left to sit (cure) for as long as ten months.
We were lucky enough to get a tour of one of the lardo laboratorios by a very nice gentleman at la Marmifera. He showed us the process with an abundance of Italian passion.
In his description, he also mentioned that they had the lardo scientifically tested and they found the curing process miraculously extracted the cholesterol and “nasty stuff” from the lard (ya, and Twinkies are a source of vitamin C!).
Sweet smell of curing pork
Never the less, the town was perfumed by the sweet smell of curing pork, kind of like bacon cooking. It was no wonder considering every other door had a sign that read “Larderia”.
Thankfully they also make pancetta (pork belly) in the same way, so we were able to get some fat with 20% meat instead of just lard.
Cioccolatini al Lardo
After our tour, we picked up some amazing local honey made with wild berry purée and some Cioccolatini al Lardo di Colonnata, chocolates made with “Crema di Lardo” (creamed lardo) instead of cocoa butter, mmm… chocolatey, porky, goodness!!
Now I can’t imagine many of you are going to go out and buy some lardo to make little Johnny his lunch for school (imagine trying to trade that in the lunchroom) but just hold on, lardo can be used in many ways other than just raw on a slice of bread (which is pretty tasty). Think of it as a very “special” bacon, add it to stuffing, lay it over a roast chicken, fatten up a salad or wrap it around a lean cut of meat.
Try my recipe below for Lardo Wrapped Pork Tenderloin, I think you’ll enjoy it. A word of caution though, unless you are cutting marble for a living, don’t eat lardo every day or you will get a “Lardo asso!”
Rob's Bistro, Madison
Starting a separate thread for Rob's b/c the few posts I've seen on here are about Madison restaurants or searches for good bistros. I've now had the pleasure of eating a few dinners and a lunch here, and it's crystal clear to me why the chef has such a devoted following.
This week I attended a wine dinner at Rob's, and I'm still wishing I could have convinced a few more friends to join me, because it was SO delicious and really gave the chef an opportunity to show that he not only knows how to cook, but that he truly understands food and wine pairings.
For starters, a quick explanation of how/why a BYOB is holding a wine dinner. A new law that went in to effect last year now allows BYOs in NJ to partner with out-of-state wine distributors to offer their wines in addition to allowing a restaurant to remain BYO. (Only in NJ, I say. ) Rob's has teamed up with Domenico Winery (CA) to offer (mostly half-bottles, iirc) their wines, so this dinner was a chance for us to try those wines along with the chef's excellent food. Four courses, wine, gratuity, and tax were $65, which is insanely reasonable, and the menu read beautifully, so I had to go!
1. Vanilla Bean Salmon Gravalax, Mâche & French Bagel paired with 2009 California Chardonnay
2. Crisp Pork Rillette, Frisée Lardon Salad paired with 2007 Amador Barbera
3. Braised Short Ribs, Sweet Potato Purée & Roasted Asparagus paired with 2007 Napa Valley "Meritage" Merlot
4. Dark Chocolate Mousse*, Fresh Strawberries & Crème Chantilly paired with 2005 "Black Silk" Ruby Red Dessert Wine
*Note: I generally don't 'care' about chocolate the way many people do I'm the one ordering something lemony or a cheese plate or better still, drinking my dessert. Rob makes THE. BEST. Dark choc mousse I've ever had.
There wasn't a miss anywhere, but without a doubt, my favorite course overall was the pork rillette. It was fantastic, and the balance of the vinaigrette on the frisée and the acid in the wine was just perfect. I'd eat and drink that combo again and again, thankyouverymuch. :-) And the Barbera was my favorite of all of the wines we tasted, but there wasn't a miss in the glass anywhere.
It was a terrific evening all around the winemaker (Domenick) was happy to share the story of how he discovered his passion for the business, and how he has grown from a make-your-own-wine club (Bacchus, based down the shore) to a full-blown California winery with a mail-order club and a tasting room in Tom's River. That Jersey boy has certainly kept his roots on the east coast!
Let’s say you’re in a rut, and life feels a bit hum-drum or even a tiny bit sad. Perk yourself up by thinking: Paris.
Food can transport you there, at least in your mind. You can do it the complex way, making boeuf bourguignon, moules frites, or duck confit. Or you can do it the simple way with an omelette or brioche French toast. In any event, just thinking of Paris as your dinner theme will be cheerful. Then dress yourself up, even if you aren’t having company, pour a glass of Champagne, and feel transported. Food can do that it really can.
I love to cook: With apologies to Julia Child, it’s hard to beat Ina Garten’s Beef Bourguignon. It works every single time and always feels like a treat. No beef for you? Well, how about moules frites, if you can find good mussels. Not an option either? Poached salmon fit for the French royal court to the rescue. And you must have dessert lemon mousse will do nicely.
Weeknight reality: You can make a cheese soufflé I promise you can. It’s much easier than you think. It won’t be ready in 30 minutes, sure. But you’ll have time to visit, or help with homework, or just sit and have a cocktail, while the soufflé is in the oven. Not convinced? Then how about Brioche French Toast with Asparagus and Orange Beurre Blanc. Yes, it’s a brunch recipe. That doesn’t mean it isn’t delicious for dinner. For dessert, some bitter chocolate and strawberries.
Need a miracle: So, it’s hard to pull off something that feels and looks and tastes all ooh-la-la in just 30 minutes. If that’s the pinch you’re in, and you really want to transport yourself (and maybe your guest, or guests), then take yourself a hop-skip-and-jump from Paris to Lyon, and make Frisée-Lardon Salad. If you’re really pressed for time, then you’re going to have to make some substitutions, but the basic idea can hold true: frisée egg onion pork (if you eat it). Buy good wine and some lovely macarons, and you’re good to go.
Ver La frisée aux lardons Película 1979 Sub Español
Título original: La frisée aux lardons
Duración: * minutos
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Idioma original: French
A classic french salad by way of manhattan salade frisée salade frisée aux lardons serves 2 2 medium heads frisée about 14 pound 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 12 teaspoon dijon mustard 12 teaspoon sherry vinegar salt and freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon minced shallot 2 slices extra thick bacon distilled white vinegar 2 large eggsthe fresher the better prepare the frisée rinse the Christian bujeau wikipedia la enciclopedia libre christian bujeau es un actor francés ganador del 2º premio de comedia del conservatoire national supérieur de parisha interpretado papeles en numerosas obras de teatro películas los visitantes la vérité si je mens 2 pédale douce así como en varias series y telefilmesdesde 2004 tiene un papel recurrente en la serie kaamelott como maestro de armas christian bujeau es él How to make a magnifique frisée lardon salad bon appetit people this friséelardon salad is basically a french bistro in a bowl petit trois chef ludo lefebvre wants to teach you how to make the best one youve ever had without the pricey plane ticket Frisée aux lardons recipe nyt cooking you want to expose the pale inner leaves and keep them looking as natural as possible dont chop them for the lardons use bacon or if you dont want its smoky taste unsmoked pancetta and when you fry them take care to brown the lardons lightly so that they are crisp but with a little give dont overcook them or the egg,
Landmarc frisée salad aux lardons city cookin find the full recipe post on httpwwwcitycookin landmarc frisée salad aux lardons serves 2 ingredients 2 slices thick cut or slab bacon about 2 oz La frisée aux lardons 1979 imdb directed by alain jaspard with bernadette lafont bernard menez michel aumont pascale rocard Frisée aux lardons cookstr cookstr is the worlds best collection of cookbook recipes available online cookstrs mission is to organize the worlds best cookbooks and recipes and make them universally accessible our online recipe library offers thousands of free recipes.
Stylish and splashy, Ouest looks like a bistro having a torrid love affair with a 1950's lounge. A string of semicircular booths in blood-red leather line the corridor leading to the main dining room, where they are repeated on a larger scale in wraparound booths big enough for six diners. These little islands of intimacy, almost totally enclosed, contrast starkly with the bright open kitchen, a beehive of activity that makes the act of dining seem like a pleasant form of leisure, which it's supposed to be.
Thomas Valenti, the executive chef, has built up a following from his years at Alison on Dominick Street and, more recently, at Butterfield 81 on the Upper East Side. At Ouest he's settled on a contemporary-feeling bistro menu, with an emphasis on clean, fresh flavors. Slices of deeply smoked sturgeon, piled high, form the centerpiece of a deluxe frisée-lardon salad. Lightly garlicky Parmesan custard, topped with morels, is just heavy enough not to float in its pool of bright sweet-pea broth. The half-dozen appetizers also include oyster pan roast with potatoes and black trumpet mushrooms, and mustard-crusted pork terrine with cornichons and pickled onions.
Main courses can be as simple as a roast chicken in garlic jus with mashed potatoes. But even the more ambitious efforts are simple at heart, with bold flavor contrasts, like roast halibut with fava-bean purée and mushroom broth, or pork tenderloin wrapped in bacon and served with white-bean purée and peppercorn sauce. Sautéed skate with braised cabbage, a bistro standby, feels rejuvenated with a tomato-chive broth. The broth bath is applied once more with crisp, charred short ribs, served on soft polenta and enriched with smoked onions and mushroom broth.
A mere handful of desserts rounds out the menu. They're not shy. Rhubarb crisp with strawberry juice and buttermilk ice cream has the all-American exuberance of a cheerleader, and the same could be said for the chocolate cake with banana ice cream and peanut brittle. Add a 100-bottle wine list, with most under $50, and Ouest begins to look like a big, brightly wrapped present dropped right in the middle of the Upper West Side.
Ouest, 2315 Broadway, at 84th Street (212) 580-8700. Dinner entrees, $16 to $26.
Frisée-Lardon Salad - Recipes
“As the name implies, you’ll find all things French and scrumptious here. Drop by for a decadent chocolate croissant, but linger for a heartier bite at the adjacent bistro.” — Food & Wine
“Amira Atallah first tasted a pain au chocolat on a recent trip to Paris with her husband. After returning home, she stumbled upon Le Marais and purchased the bakery's own version. ‘You taste it and you're mentally transported back’ to Paris, the 42-year-old says.” — The Wall Street Journal
"Shipped frozen, these sinfully good croissants can be baked at home whenever you feel like brunching on the left bank." — Oprah magazine
"Le Marais might just be San Francisco's best French patisserie. The bakery is drawing attention for its delicious, authentic Parisian pastries… While enjoying Le Marais’ French treats, also take a minute to savor the charm of the shop. Stylish design details fuse the best of youthful San Francisco with old-world Paris.” — Condé Nast Traveler
"Best Breakfasts In San Francisco: The croissants here are incredible, and the granola with yogurt is our favorite in the city. If you want something more interactive, the breakfast board option lets you pick eggs, toast, fruit, lox and other fixings to create your own spread." — Infatuation
“Everything going on in the Marina's Le Marais Bakery feels so perfectly San Franciscan giving a nod to artisan techniques of the past while utilizing our local gems in an ingenious way.” — 7x7
“One of the most Instagrammable places in San Francisco, the Castro location is my favorite little French café and a great spot to sneak away for some decadent carbs. It has amazing pastries, delicious French breakfast spreads, rosé, healthy salads—the list goes on!” — TimeOut
"After moving to the U.S. for business school, Patrick Ascaso pined for the pastries of France. Two decades later, he opened up shop in SF, where the team has won endless accolades for their levain-based viennoiserie, painstakingly crafted from countless layers of fermented dough, cultured butter, and air.” — Bake magazine
"Since Le Marais Bakery opened its doors in the Marina, their Parisian style of baking has grown in popularity, featuring flaky croissants and pastries made using artisanal recipes from France." — Eater.com
"San Francisco’s Most Instagram-Worthy Eateries: Few things photograph as well as French pastries. This adorable bakery cleverly adorns its brick-meets-tile storefront with fresh flowers and heavenly daylight is aplenty." — SF Station
“Parisian inspired farm-to-table. You need to stop by and try their almond croissants.” — Thrillist
"An homage to the cafe culture of owner Patrick Ascaso's native France, Le Marais has made a name for itself as a bakery, bistro, viennoiserie, and patisserie. Le Marais replicates the light, leisurely brunches of Paris, and its flaky pastries stand out among the crowd." — SFist
“The bakery-restaurant is on the rise in San Francisco. It makes sense: We love handmade pastries. We also adore chef-driven restaurants.” — San Francisco Chronicle
“Le Marais has opened the doors to its newest bakery and cafe, bringing its buttery croissants and Parisian panache to the Tendernob. It’s the bakery’s third — and largest — location, serving as cafe, and a baking commissary and experimentation lab.” — Eater.com
"Flaky croissants, classic French nibbles and coffee are among the treats you’ll find in this charming cafe." — Marin Magazine
“Most Instagrammable Hot Spots: It's amour at every last bite. The elegant cafe is a très parfait spot to rendezvous for breakfast, brunch (avocado toast), and lunch (croques)” — 7x7
“When is a jelly doughnut not a doughnut? When it's made by Le Marais, a micro-chain of bakeries named for one of Paris' coolest neighborhoods. This is one fine pastry. The brioche dough is malty and airy, lofted with levain instead of yeast." — Jessica Battilana, Edible San Francisco
“Le Marais is a really good bakery — you can tell by seeing the lines that form during the day. No wonder the place has been a hit since it opened.” — Michael Bauer, San Francisco Chronicle
“Named after a stylish district in Paris, this bakery exudes French charm. It’s almost impossible to choose just one treat, with lush fruit tarts and buttery pains au chocolat all on display.” — WhereTraveler
"SF’s Most Instagram-Worthy: Le Marais has a sweet spot in Instagram influencers’ hearts." — Haute Living
“At Le Marais, the beautiful artisanal bistro and bakery, the crowds come for many reasons. Some arrive just past dawn for the best Kouign-Amann and croissants this side of the Atlantic Ocean. The place is always humming with happy people." — FoodNetwork.com
“Le Marais Bakery, named after a well-loved district of Paris, is already becoming a locals’ hangout. The bakery features a well-selected spread of Paris-worthy pastries, tarts, and croissants.” — Bay Area Bites, KQED
“Le Marais began as a bakery of the sort of pretty, polished French pastries one sees at better bakeries in Paris. Artful, restrained food that allows seasonal ingredients to shine in a rarefied light.” — SF Examiner
“Judging from the rave reviews from already repeat patrons, Le Marais has found a sweet spot on Chestnut to make a Parisian pastry lover’s dream come true.” — Marina Times
"San Franciscans looking for the classic French bakery experience should look no further than LeMarais Bakery, a welcoming gem." — SF Gate
"The lighting is so gorgeous in this bakery and the aesthetics are on point. every single thing on the menu is divine.” — Sassy Red Lipstick
As we continue to share our travel experience in Lyon, France, let’s begin with a fun and FREE tour guide we found through Lyon City Greeters! It is easy to set up a personalized 2-hour tour which is scheduled around your interests and availability. We wanted to explore the old part of the city (Vieux Lyon), so our tour guide, Agnes, who spoke fluent English, happily shared the history while we strolled. We visited Saint Jean Cathedral built between 1175 and 1480 which holds a spectacular 16th century astronomical clock (which can calculate dates as well as the stars) and gorgeous rose stained-glass windows. Romanesque and Gothic in style, it has weathered religious wars, renovation work, and political discord, and remains a significant symbol in Lyon.
Agnes led us through 10 or 12 hidden traboules, the secret covered passageways, dating from the 4 th Century. While there are over 400 passageways scattered throughout the city, only 40 are open to the public. In ancient times, these corridors allowed locals to quickly walk from their homes to the source of fresh water rather than through the winding streets. Later in the 19 th Century, they were used by the canuts (silk workers) to carry their heavy loads from their workshops to the textile merchants. These private passages were essential during the Second World War – being used by the resistance for secret meetings (and to quickly move to the next street) which prevented the Nazis from occupying the whole of Lyon.
The traboules (secret passageways) are easily found with signs like this: (follow the lion!)
You can navigate these secrets traboules with a tour with Lyon City Greeters, or set up a private tour for about $15 US. We enjoyed our personal guide who highlighted some of the most significant sites, including one of her favorite silk shops, La Soierie de Saint George. We highly recommend taking advantage of this free tour guide service to see Lyon from a local’s perspective. We also found a similar city tour guide service while visiting Bordeaux, so check with the city you plan to explore before you go!
Cooking Class at Plum Lyon Teaching Kitchen
We are passionate about cooking and baking, and consistently try new recipes in order to learn a technique or to simply tantalize our senses. Afterall, flavor and texture are important to our palates! We have discovered taking a culinary class in a different part of the country/world has often been a highlight of our trip. It’s inspiring to learn from a new instructor, interact with other students from another city/country, and cook/bake something from a specific region.
Plum Lyon Teaching Kitchen offers numerous hands-on classes in a small setting (6-8 students). The courses range from a 4 hour Croissant class to an all-day Market Table Cuisine where you visit a local farmer’s market, fromagerie (cheese shop), boulangerie (bread shop), pâtisserie (pastry shop), and plan a several-course-meal based on what is in season. Chef Lucy Vanel, owner of Plum Lyon, is originally from the US and now a French citizen. She earned a prestigious Pastry Certification from the Académie de Lyon, and is extremely knowledgeable in culinary arts. She is warm and cheery, and proud to share her wealth of knowledge about Lyon’s gastronomy.
We chose to take a market course at Plum Lyon Teaching Kitchen called La Cuisine du Marché (market cuisine). With a class of 3 students, Chef Lucy discussed what we might find in season at the market, jotting notes on the big class chalkboard. Then briskly, we walked up the Croix-Rousse hill to the busiest farmer’s market in Lyon, Marché de la Croix-Rousse – with an occasional stop along the way for a brief bit of Lyon history.
Numerous local market vendors line over four city blocks displaying their finest, from florists to fromagers (cheese vendors), boucheries (butchers), fruit and vegetable stands, to street food vendors selling spit-roasted organic chickens or steaming platters of paella. It’s truly a wonder for your senses. Lucy then takes you to her favorite cheese shop, meat shop, and boulangerie (bread/pastry) to pick up items for the several-course meal. Back at the school, we begin washing the herbs and vegetables, and preparing our ‘mise en place’ (set up) for the planned meal. Champagne is uncorked, and we begin sharing a simple appetizer of charcuterie (salami), sliced bread, a creamy celeriac salad we just tossed together. Each course, from the appetizer through dessert, requires participation from each student to prepare, cook/bake, mix, and plate. As a seasoned Pastry Chef and Chef Instructor, I thoroughly enjoyed this classroom experience, and continue to learn a great deal from other chefs and even from the students. We highly recommend Plum Lyon Teaching Kitchen during your visit to Lyon.
Appetizer of pâté en croute, salami, fried frog legs, and French radishes and salted butter. We created this traditional Lyonnaise salad: Frisée Lardon Salad with steamed eggs, radicchio, homemade croutons, and walnut oil vinaigrette. Oh, so scrumptious! Learning to trim, debone, and tie the ballotine of rabbit. Ballotine de Lapereau aux Champignons des Bois (Rabbit with Wild Mushrooms). Iles Flottantes, a very traditional French dessert! ‘Islands’ of meringue floating in Crème Anglaise (vanilla bean sauce).
Michelin-star Restaurant – Prairial
While traditional bouchon restaurants are prominent in Lyon, a new generation of young chefs are departing from the Lyonnaise custom to bring modern cuisine to the area. There are countless Michelin-starred restaurants from which to choose in Lyon, so after a bit of research, we made dejeuner (lunch) reservations at Prairial because of its focus on ‘farm-to-table style’ seasonal ingredients procured from sustainable sources. [Lunch, by the way, is a less expensive way to enjoy a Michelin-rated restaurant. $59-76 Euro ($66-86 US) for lunch vs $76-93 Euro ($86-105 US) for dinner.] Prairial’s contemporary setting of 10 tables is vibrant yet peaceful, and the staff is attentive and perfectly bilingual, setting us at ease. We were delighted with Chef Gäetan Gentil’s attention to the ingredients, and the exquisite flavor he built with them. He has a playful style with a mix of color and texture on the plate, each dish carefully crafted with a dusting of dried morels or delicate petals of fresh herbs or carefully laid gems of caviar. Superb wines were paired with each course or recommended as you wish. We chose to order a single glass of Chenin Blanc for the first half of the meal, and a Burgundy Pinot Noir for the latter half which was perfectly satisfying – each wine suggested by the sommelier (wine expert).
The menu was delivered as a surprise, each of us handed an envelope with a beautifully crafted card highlighting a phrase for each course. How exciting. A little game has already begun with an attentive guest, and the creative master! Du bout des doigts (fingertips) was an appetizer of an exotic miniature pillow filled with creamy cauliflower. 2 nd course was a delicate portion of Asperge (asparagus) soup cooked in wild garlic. 3 rd course Brochet – a tender serving of Pike floating on a whipped egg in a pool of fragrant sorrel sauce topped with a lacey baguette slice, beet greens, and pearls of caviar. Many more courses followed but two highlights continue to come to mind: Chevre (creamy fresh goat cheese) with spruce syrup and toasted pine nuts, and Beurre Noisette (brown butter) Ice Cream with morel
mushroom dust and caramel – a dessert I would love to replicate! Lunch at Prairial was a glorious 3-hour culinary experience, and very much a treat for our palates!
Visit the Fourvière District – Foundation in the history of Lyon
The Fourvière District is the site of the original Roman settlement of Lugdunum (43 BC), an area which should not be missed when visiting Lyon. It is located on a hill immediately west of Vieux Lyon, the old city, and rises above the River Saône. There you will find remnants of Roman Baths, a Roman theatre from 15 BC, and a 3,000 seat Roman Odéon, a covered building used for musical performances and public gatherings (now a museum and designated for a series of large concerts and operas in summer). Thankfully the world’s two oldest and most active funicular railway lines can transport you to the top of the hill, or you can physically climb this monstrous hill on foot. This district is part of the UNESCO World Heritage sites designated in 1998. The Basilica of Fourvière (built 1872 & 1884) looms impressively on top of the hill, and is a great spot to view the city. The Basilica has become a great symbol of the city, and can be seen from many vantage points.
Chocolatiers in Lyon
We admit – we’re addicted to French Chocolate. The complex floral notes, smooth texture, and masterful presentation drew us into many boutiques in Lyon. Sebastien Bouillet has an elegant shop in the Croix-Rousse neighborhood. A river of dark chocolate pours down a wall upon entering the shop – the fragrance so pleasurable you dive right into shopping. A plethora of options include boxed truffles (or choose your own), full-size bars featuring cacao from all over the world, to small specialty items. We prefer to buy 5-6 truffles we can share over the course of a day or two, and stock up on larger assortments before we leave the city.
Three other notable chocolate shops are Weiss and Bernachon and a small chocolatier, Phillippe Bel. We support shops that are true to the craft of sourcing beans, method, and dedication to a consistent, high-quality product.
When walking into a boulangerie (bakery) in Lyon, you can’t help but notice fluorescent pink pralines baked into various products. They beckon you, believe me, to try them. Pink pralines are simply candied almonds colored with pink food coloring and baked into the gorgeous brioche (buttery yeasted bread), tarts, or sold in bags for snacking or your own baked goods. The tradition is mysterious, but one version is sometime in the 18 th Century, a Lyonnais pastry chef was inspired by the rose gardens in the Rhône region and tinted his pralines in a similar shade which became a sensation.
We purchased a brioche aux pralines (candied almonds baked into a rich bread) to eat throughout the week of our stay, and I was surprised how much I enjoyed it – lightly chewy and buttery bread with a hint of sweetness from the candied pralines. The color was striking! I also tasted a Pink Praline dessert at Le Bouchon des Filles with a bright pink warm praline sauce drizzled over two slices of pound cake. Again, it was lightly sweet and deeply satisfying!
With inspiration from these pink jewels, I have formulated a recipe for a scrumptious Pink Praline Tart (click on this link for recipe). This would be perfect to serve any time of year, but with it’s alluring color I think it will work well for Christmas or even New Year’s holiday! Candy the almonds a day or up to a week before finishing the tart, and be sure to make extra for light snacking. Additional ways to use the pink pralines could be: